Bed Adhesion: What Each Filament Actually Needs
Getting a print to stick to the bed and stay there is half the battle with 3D printing. Some materials are forgiving. Others will peel up, warp, or crack the moment you look away. Here's what each material in VisualSpool actually needs, and what to reach for when it does. Renders below are from VisualSpool's own spool preview engine.
Common Materials
PLA: None
PLA is the easy one. A clean PEI or textured plate holds it with no help at all. If you're printing something tall and thin, or a part with a tiny footprint, a brim can add a bit of extra insurance, but for most prints you can skip adhesion aids entirely.
PETG: Optional
PETG's real problem isn't sticking. It's sticking too well. Left bare on textured PEI, it can bond hard enough to peel the coating off the plate when you remove the print. A thin layer of glue stick acts as a release layer rather than an adhesion aid, giving you a clean pop-off instead of a fight (or a ruined plate).
ABS: Recommended
ABS holds onto the bed fine. The real enemy is warping as it cools, which can lift corners and edges mid-print. Glue stick improves the bond, and an enclosure helps just as much by keeping the whole print at an even temperature. For anyone printing on glass, a purpose-mixed slurry (ABS shavings dissolved in acetone) is a classic hobbyist fix.
ASA: Recommended
Same profile as ABS. Warping is the main challenge, not adhesion. Glue stick plus a controlled, enclosure-protected environment goes a long way, and a brim on larger parts gives the corners extra hold while they cool.
TPU: None
Flexible filament grips a textured PEI plate well on its own. Adhesion aids are rarely needed and can sometimes make it harder to remove a squishy part cleanly once it's done.
Engineering Materials
PA (Nylon): Required
Nylon is notorious for poor bed adhesion combined with a strong tendency to warp. This is one material where skipping an adhesion aid usually means a failed print. A nylon-specific bed surface (garolite is the classic choice) paired with a proper glue stick is the standard setup.
PC: Required
Polycarbonate runs hot and warps hard if it's not held down properly. A strong adhesion promoter is close to mandatory, and a brim gives extra insurance on any print with a modest footprint. This is not a low-effort material to print, and the bed setup reflects that.
Specialty & Support Materials
PVA: Optional
PVA dissolves in water, which makes it the go-to support material for PLA prints with tricky overhangs, especially in multi-material AMS setups. Adhesion itself usually isn't the problem. Some users prefer a strip of tape under PVA supports purely for easier peel-off, since the filament itself is hygroscopic and can get fussy if it's absorbed moisture.
HIPS: Recommended
HIPS is the support material of choice for ABS and ASA prints, dissolving cleanly in limonene once the print is done. It shares ABS's tendency to warp, so treat the bed setup the same way: glue stick and a brim on anything with a modest footprint.
PVB: None to Optional
PVB behaves a lot like PLA and PETG on the bed. Most users won't need anything at all. If you're seeing any lifting, a light glue stick layer is all it takes.
Quick Reference
| Material | Adhesion Need | What Helps |
|---|---|---|
| PLA | None | Brim (only for tall or small-footprint parts) |
| PETG | Optional | Glue for release, not adhesion |
| ABS | Recommended | Glue, enclosure, slurry on glass |
| ASA | Recommended | Glue, enclosure, brim on larger parts |
| TPU | None | None |
| PA (Nylon) | Required | Nylon-specific plate, glue |
| PC | Required | Strong adhesion promoter, brim |
| PVA | Optional | Tape, if peel-off is difficult |
| HIPS | Recommended | Glue, brim |
| PVB | None to Optional | Light glue if needed |
A tip that applies across the board: if your plate is removable, take it off the printer before washing it with dish soap and warm water, then dry it thoroughly. Fingerprints and dust cause more failed first layers than any material property ever will.